Growing Lilies

Growing Lilies
Growing LiliesLilies are among the most popular flowers in the world. From traditional florists to home gardeners to landscape designers, almost everyone appreciates the beauty and splendor of lilies. Cultivated for over 3000 years, they have appeared in literature and paintings, played a significant part in historical events (the Romans carried various Lilium herbs in their travels), and they even have a few Biblical passages mentioning them: "Like a lily among the thorns, so is my darling among the maidens." --Song of Solomon 2:2.

While lilies only require a moderate amount of care to flourish, below are a few useful tips that will ensure the ones in your garden live up to their full potential.

The most important thing to keep in mind when caring for lilies is that they “like their heads in the sun and their feet in the shade.” This means they should have plenty of sunlight, but with a good two-inch organic mulch added to the base to keep the soil cool. If you don’t want to use mulch you can plant them along with fern, vinca, or another type of low-creeping perennial that will provide plenty of shade at the bottom.

Another essential thing for lilies is well-draining soil.Your bulbs won’t survive if they remain submerged in water. To increase your soil’s drainage, simply add sand, compost, or peat moss. Or you can make sure the soil beds are raised high enough before planting the bulbs.

Rich soil will make your lilies thrive, but don’t go too heavy on the fertilizer. Simply use one with sufficient amounts of potassium, phosphorous and nitrogen. Also keep in mind that most lilies prefer slightly acidic soil. To test the acidity, you can buy a pH kit from your local gardening center, or for a fee some centers will test the soil for you.

The bulbs of your lilies will be more easily damaged than other bulbs; and their shoots will be more fragile as well, so be careful not to step on them. It’s normal if your bulbs are a tiny bit soft, or if there is a small amount of mold on them. Just remove the browned or softened scales and they’ll be fine. Because lily bulbs never go into a dormant period, they should planted as soon as possible.

Most lilium bulbs are edible and are said to have a starchy taste resembling a potato. But be aware that some house cats have suffered kidney failure and died after eating lily bulbs. Keep cats and any other pets away from lilies.

When planting, note the height of your bulbs and make sure they are covered with three to four times that amount of soil. Plant them about 8 to 12 inches apart with three to five of the same bulbs in each group. Add some fertilizer to the bottom of the hole and make sure the roots of the bulb are spread out before planting. When filling the hole with soil, pack it down to remove any air pockets.

If you have to store your bulbs, do it in a very cool place that is also frost-free. And never store them with apples or other fruit. They will kill the bulbs by emitting a gas that causes them to rot.

If you have lilies blooming in the house, follow these simple safeguards: Give the plant lots of sunlight, but make sure they’re not in direct light. Keep them away from any sources of heat. Remove the anthers by pinching them and pulling them out – most lilies will live longer if you remove the pollen stamens, this will also keep pollen from spreading to your clothing, rugs, table cloths and furniture – use a dry paper towel to wipe away pollen from clothes, etc. Remove any flowers from your plant that begin to wither. Temperatures of 60-65 degrees are most beneficial to the blooms.

Outdoors, if your shoots emerge too early in the spring, protect them from any heavy frosts by covering them with mulch. Or if animals are eating your shoots, cover them with chicken wire. Rabbits and slugs will probably be your main pests when your shoots start to emerge. Chicken wire will take care of the rabbits, and a beer trap will take care of the slugs. Make a beer trap by sinking a shallow pan halfway into the ground and filling it with beer. The slugs will drown after being attracted to the scent.

If animals are digging up your bulbs, try putting down some wire mesh or a window screen over them for a couple of weeks. Burlap bags can be used as well.

Regularly monitor your flower buds for aphids. If you see any, simply wash them away with a forceful spray from your garden hose, being careful not to damage the plant. Or you can use an insecticide containing rotenone or nicotine.

If you see tan or reddish brown spots on your tulip leaves in late summer, a fungus called botrytis may be attacking your plants. Fungicide sprays can be bought at gardening centers to control botrytis.

During the winter months, after the foliage has turned yellow, cut the plants back to soil level. Work more fertilizer or bone meal into the surface, then cover with a few inches of mulch made from wood chips, straw, or ground corncobs to insulate them.

Don’t be surprised if your lilies don’t reach full height or overall beauty in the first year. Proper care will ensure they do reach their full potential in the following years.

Interesting fact: Louis Houghton, a soldier who fought in World War I, first gave lilies to the U.S. when he brought a suitcase filled with bulbs to Oregon. He gave them to his friends and family to use in their gardens and they became extremely popular!

A few of the the easiest lilies to grow for beginners are the madonna lily, tiger lily, regal lily, coral lily, and showy lily. But remember to always select lilies appropriate for your region.

Some popular lilies:
  • The Rubrum Lily – it has pink and white petals containing tiny gem-like points and is very fragrant.
  • American Turk’s-cap – this lily has spotted yellow and orange flowers and grows up to five to eight feet tall.
  • Red Velvet – it has dark red flowers with a regal shape and color; tough enough to grow in all parts of the country.
  • White Henryi – this lily has thin ivory petals with an apricot colored heart in the center and red sprinkles.

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