 | There is a pattern and rhythm for citrus tree care that gardeners can follow, taking the guess work out of growing healthy fruit. Cultivating vigorous trees that produce an abundance of prettier fruit is easy, when proper care is provided at the proper time.
Busy citrus tree growers can simplify upkeep by formulating a year-long plan of action, performed quarterly. The key to success will be to cover all phases of that plan within the allotted three month period. You can adapt the following guideline, suited for growing zones 8-9, to fit your zone.
But first, a more thorough explanation on important topics involved in the care plan:
1.) Watering – although the care plan that follows will offer general, rule of thumb times and frequency to water citrus trees, not all soils absorb the same amount of water.
Soil particles that are large hold less water than other soil types; the smaller the soil particles, the more water is held. A soil that holds a large amount of water does not need as frequent a watering as other soil types, but more water is required per watering.
Citrus trees in average sandy-loam soils usually require watering at 14 day intervals, starting around July; water more during unusually hot weather, or if leaves begin to curl.
In addition to soil type, condition of tree and current weather all affect frequency of watering needs; adjust suggested watering schedules to meet your needs.
Whenever leaves start to curl – water immediately; if fruits begin to split open, water less.
If using a sprinkler system, do not allow water come in contact with the foliage. Citrus leaves can absorb salt directly from the water; this can cause leaves to turn brown around the edges and drop prematurely.
2.) Fertilizing – Citrus trees do not need heavy fertilization, but regular applications of nitrogen are needed; potassium and phosphorous needs are generally adequate in most soil types.
Fruit that develop an overly thick rind might indicate that too much nitrogen was added during its development. You will want to reduce the total amount of nitrogen applied the following year.
Unless you use coated pellets that gradually release nutrients, make sure you water the fertilizer into the ground thoroughly. If not, damaged roots and burned leaves could result.
Nitrogen deficiency will usually show up as yellow-green leaves; do not confuse this with normal yellowing during the winter.
Yellow-green leaves with green veins, or in more severe cases, leaves that are almost white, usually indicate an iron deficiency. Treat with iron sulphate, or an iron chelate compound.
Apply chelate according to label instructions to the tree basin area and water thoroughly. Apply iron sulphate in a shallow circular trench around the tree, or broadcast around the entire tree, then water thoroughly.
3.) Pruning – with the exception of lemon trees, citrus trees usually require little pruning, other than removal of dead or damaged wood, or to keep them compact.
Lemon trees will sometimes need inside branch thinning to avoid branch tangle, as well as heading back of very long, top shoots.
When pruning, remove all suckers or other growth below the bud union or graft; they are from the rootstock and will not bear edible fruit.
The bulk of fruit produced on citrus trees is in the bottom 6 feet of the tree. Removal of lower limbs results in lower production of fruit.
4.) Harvesting – Generally speaking, when fruit is first “ripe,” they will continue to improve in flavor if left on the tree a little longer. Be sure to harvest when still at peak, however, as after peak they start to decline in quality.
Mature fruit can be left on the tree while it is blooming, but this will slightly reduce amounts of setting fruit for the next season.
To repel birds from raiding ripening fruit, try the following home remedy spray: Mix 2 tablespoons of “Sloanes liniment” and a dash of detergent to a gallon of warm water. This will help protect some fruits from birds, but may also repel you from your fruit. You will want to try it on just a few “test” branches first.
5.) Pests – A good home remedy to kill or deter aphids, flea beetles, leafhoppers, whiteflies, ants, and many other crawling insects causing damage to trees or fruit: Mix ˝ teaspoon eucalyptus oil, 1 tablespoon vegetable oil, and 1 tablespoon liquid dishwashing soap in a gallon of warm water. Shake mixture prior to each spraying. Although no damage to trees or fruits has been reported, it is best to test spray a few limbs first.
Now that important aspects of citrus tree care have been more thoroughly discussed, we are ready to adapt a quarterly care plan guide for your trees. Remember, this guide was formulated for growing zones 8-9, and will need to be adapted to your zone.
January/February/March
Since January is usually the coldest month of the year, pay attention to freeze warnings. Young trees especially need protection, particularly sensitive species of citrus plants, such as lime trees. Though mostly still dormant, provide some water on warmer days. Leaf shedding is normal this time of year.
Continue to expect more frost through the middle of February, or even later. Some trees are beginning to grow buds; water once or twice during February, and fertilize. Coated pellets will release nutrients more gradually and will work better for this type of care plan.
By March damaging frosts are no longer expected. Trees exhibit lots of new buds and growth. A heavy drop of leaves might occur at this time. Prune away any frost damaged or dead areas, misplaced branches, or suckers. This is also a good time to paint exposed areas to prevent sunburn or sunscald. Use equal parts water mixed with flat latex paint.
If you don’t want to paint your tree, wrap exposed trunks with tree wrap or newspaper. Water deeply.
If you plan on planting more citrus, March is a good time to start – 5 gallon sized plants.
April/May/June
During April, remove any citrus you did not already eat, before they fall from the tree – with the exception of grapefruit. Grapefruit gets sweeter the longer it remains on the tree, the closer summer approaches. It is still not too late to plant new citrus plants.
By April all trunk parts of citrus and young trees exposed to sun should be painted white to keep them cooler and protect them from sunburn.
Step up watering to once every two weeks in May for established trees to prevent leaves from curling. Fertilize trees again after newly set fruit begins to drop. If trees are small, it might be a good idea to remove some of the fruit to avoid exhausting it. Also check trees for pests.
In June trees might need to be watered more than once every two weeks. Mulching (less than an inch thick) around trees might help keep roots cooler and conserve water; avoid direct contact between the mulch and trunk of the tree.
July/August/September
Continue watering deeply once every two weeks, or more if needed, through July. Check trees for pests, and for sunburn.
Fertilize trees again in August; this will promote bigger fruit and prompt new tree growth. Do not fertilize again until next February. Continue to water deeply, but be careful. Too much water can result in chlorosis; too little water and damage caused by heat can split fruit.
Although the weather begins to cool in September, water needs are still high. If you decide to plant more citrus, wait until evening when the temperature drops to the 70s. As September comes to a close, begin to decrease watering frequency.
October/November/December
With the cool weather of October, this is a good time to plant more citrus. Begin watering less often; in regular sandy loam soils, water monthly, in sandy soils water every three weeks.
Be on the lookout for freeze warnings through November. Slow down watering to once every 20 days or more. Protect young trees on frosty nights by wrapping protection around the trunks (such as a pad of thick, water repellent urethane foam). Pick any early ripening fruit.
Continue picking fruit through December; pick fruits on the outside of trees first, since they are more exposed to frost. Newer shoots on grapefruit trees will usually turn yellow in the winter, but will return to green in the spring. Watch for freezing nights.
By setting down quarterly guidelines for preventative care measures to follow throughout the year, you avoid the necessity of damage control. Follow the care plan you develop for your citrus trees, and watch the fruits of your success bloom!
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